Textile Learning Details

Buyer Procedures of order initiation Part Three:

CM/CMP Basis Order:

The elaboration of CM is Cutting & Making and the elaboration of CMP is Cutting, Making & Profit. That means the buyer will provide all the items of the garments as fabric, accessories, and other things relating to the order. He (the buyer) also bears all the expenses of the garments and the manufacturer will be responsible to cut and make the garments using the buyers’ provided essentials.

Here the manufacturer charges the actual cutting and making with his profit.  Some buyer wants to be clear regarding the actual cutting and making and the probable profit of the manufacturer. Here the costing of the garments should be ascertained basing the buyers’ specifications.


In the case of a CM or CMP basis order, the factory can either gain favor or receive the plight basis on the availability of every essence of the garment.

As an example, if the buyer is to provide all the essentials of the garments i.e. fabric and other trims from their own end but the essentials are not received timely. In other cases, if the buyer sends the required items but does not meet the actual demand of the garments then various problems are to be sustained. Among the problem, the short shipment is mandatory and for this, the CMP must decrease.

Again, if the order comprises to full fill the buyers’ all specifications but the related and required items are not available or loss occurred due to normal shipment of items from one country to another county, the buyer may not accept the real objection for the normal loss.

If the acceptance for the items sourced locally by the manufacturer is to provide soon, the manufacturer is sure to sustain the painstaking for this.

Designer Jeans Ltd sometimes conducts the CM basis order considering the profitability and the buyers’ specification and relation.

For the new & existing buyer: (FOB basis order):

Suppose, the buyer is satisfied regarding the factory and wants to set up business relations and like the new buyer, if the existing buyer is inclined to conduct business with the factory for the manufacturing of the garments, the subsequent procedures are generally followed.


         The buyer first sends some inquiry of a style of garments viz. basic 5 pocket denim pants or any items.

         The buyer may send some information regarding the fabric as:

•           Fabric,

•           Color,

•           Fabric construction,

•           Origin of fabric (the country from where the fabric should be sourced,

•           Garment’s description,

•           The trims or accessories to be used for the garments viz. thread, button, rivet, poly, carton, hanger, hand tag, price tag, logo, spare button & rivet,

•           The level (size, care, main, etc.),

•           The other items of the garments i.e. poly, carton, etc.

         The inquiry may include some spec of the garments with the measurement as beneath:



                                                          Size     48        50        52        54        56

K         ½ waist                                   NEW   41        43        45        47        49

Seat measured below WB  16        16        16        17        17

C         ½ seat                                    NEW   52.5    54.5    56.5    58.5    60.5

FR       front rise, excl. WB   23        23.5    24        24.5    25

BR      back rise, excl. WB  36        36.5    37        37.5    38

Zipper length            15        15        15        16        16

T          ½ thigh                                   NEW   30        31        32        33        34

Pm1    pocket mouth vertical          9          9          9          9.5       9.5

Pm2    pocket mouth horizontal     13        13        13        13.5    13.5

Y2       back yoke height at c.b       6          6          6          6.5       6.5

Y21     back yoke height at side     3          3          3          3.5       3.5

Back pocket length/ width NEW    15/15  15/15  15/15  16/16  16/16

WB      waist band height    4          4          4          4          4

M         ½ leg opening                      NEW   20.5    21        21.5    22        22.5

Kh       knee height from inseam   42        42        42        42        42

Kw      ½ knee width                        NEW   21.5    22        22.5    23        23.5

E         inner seam                NEW   80.5    81.5    82.5    83.5    84.5

B         outer seam, excl. WB          NEW   104     105.5  107     108.5  110

SKETCH: all Styles


         The buyer may send a physical sample to be made or for production inquiry,

The buyer may also bring the direct/actual sample with him during his visit to the factory.

However, the main tasks of getting the inquiry by any merchandiser or the Managing Director, the subsequent procedures are mainly followed:

         The sample or the inquiry received by the company is first sent to the concerned merchandiser,

         The next procedure is to send the sample/inquiry to the technical/sample department for necessary initiatives; whether the garment can be produced/manufactured here sustaining all the machines, designs, styling, materials used, and the other items as appliqué, embroidery, printing, interlining, etc.

         The technical department examines the consumption of fabric and other essentials i.e. accessories and other related issues required to produce/manufacture the garments and helps in proper costing of the garments ensuring the practicable profit.

         The costing sheet is then minutely examined by the merchandiser and other technical & production related persons to verify the sustainable setting of the cost of the garments i.e. whether the offered price would be fruitful for the company and the buyer would appreciate it,

         The cost should always be precisely examined as the buyer may conduct the same inquiry to the many factories at a time and every one of us knows very well that every company wants to seek new & existing buyer for its profit which is the main acceleration of being able to conduct the business influentially.

         If the actual sample is provided by the buyer or the speck indicates the actual categorization & origin of the used materials used for the sample, the precise examination is more needed with extra care that the costing must cover the relative expenses of the fabric, accessories, other essentials and the company’s sustainable profit satisfying the production cost, supplementary cost, commercial cost, and other supportable expenses.

         At the time of the costing, the buyer’s other requirements viz. production lead time, the shipments date, the mode of shipment (sea or airway shipment), etc must also be sustainable to the company/factory.

         If the sample provided by the buyer, has the characteristics of being sustainable to any means to be supportable to the company through wide counseling including top-level management, merchandising department, technical department, sample department, production department regarding the actual/precise costing for its actualization from a profitability point of view, then the company generally initiate the further procedures.

         Basing the determined costing, a feasible price with sustainable profit is offered for the garments.

         The subsequent procedure is to make a sample.

Here it must be mentioned that the costing/price settlement may be after the submission and the approval of the samples. However, here the usual procedures have been explained only.

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